Tips for travelling in West Papua (formerly Irian Jaya)

General tips:

·         The universal language is Bahasa Indonesia. Never rely on anyone to speak English.

·         All towns you visit will require a surat jalan or a travel permit. These must be pre-organised at police stations before you travel to the town. Upon arrival at the town, the surat jalan needs to be stamped and checked by police. Failure to comply can land you in big trouble – deportation, or worse.

·         Women especially should try not to travel alone. People will try to bully and intimidate women who are alone.

·         Couples showing affection in public is simply not done.

·         If you want to take photos of people, ask first. This is very important, as taking photos uninvited can cause trouble. Often, you will be asked for IRP 5000 (about AU$0.80) Do not give children money, sweets or small souvenirs are a much better idea.

·         Treat police and army with respect.

·         The Police and army do not muck around. Not stopping at a checkpoint often results in gunfire.

·         The OPM (Anti-Indonesia militia) are active and are hard to predict. It is nothing personal, but they are known to kidnap and even kill westerners and Indonesians for publicity. Getting involved with them in any way will cause problems. If the Indonesian government sees you befriending them, you may end up in prison- if you are lucky. Carrying an OPM flag carries the death penalty.

·         West Papua is fast becoming the AIDS capital of the world.

·         Carrying a phrasebook, such as a Lonely Planet guide is a great idea.

·         Clean drinking water is never guaranteed

·         Electricity can be hard to get. Also, different areas run on different systems. Carry adaptors if you need power for electronics.

·         There is no dry season in some areas. Rainfall can be as much as 10 000mm a year. Waterproof your baggage.

Dealing with Indonesians

·         Be polite and patient, arguing will slow you will get nowhere

·         The main religion of Indonesians is Islam, followed by Christianity.

·         Never offer food or money with the left hand. It is considered unclean.

·         Both men and women should wear clothes that cover arms and legs. Customs officials can turn people back if they are deemed inappropriately dressed.

·         Getting into a fight with an Indonesian can see the westerner put behind bars- without trial.

·         Never openly criticize anything about the Indonesians.

Dealing with Papuans

·         Papuans follow many religions, the main one is Christianity. Some still follow traditional beliefs.

·         Be polite at all times.

·         There is rarely, if ever a dress code in Papuan areas, but always be respectful.

·         Papuans are generally happy people with a sense of humour. Do not take offence if you are part of a harmless joke.

·         It is considered masculine in many areas for men to hold hands with each other.

·         When visiting a village, the head man (often naked) may wish to hug and kiss all visitors.

·         If they say no to something, don’t push it any further.

·         When visiting a village, it is an idea to bring gifts. Good gifts include but are not limited to: clothes- including hats, flashlights/torches, sweets for children and adults alike, cups/plates, fishing lures, fluffy souvenir animals for the children etc… Unless pre-arranged, handing over cash is not the best idea- it can make villages dependant on handouts.

·         Gifts should not be given unless you are staying in a village or getting goods or services in return. Don’t overpay.

·         If people, including children follow you around expecting you to produce a gift or money for the sake of it, do not cave in. Ignore it or explain that you must trade for money, services etc. Giving money or gifts just because somebody is following you will encourage more of the same behaviour. They will learn to follow, and eventually pickpocket.

·         Avoid any gifts that have plastic packaging. Papuans are still new to the idea of pollution, plastic will simply be thrown on the ground. If packaging is a must, use paper.

·         Papuan tour guides never seem to be in a hurry to do anything, they are generally relaxed people. Delays are normal, but do not be afraid to politely hurry things along.

Shopping

·         Buying products made from protected species such as birds of paradise is foolish. Each time a tourist buys such products, more of these animals are killed. Populations are already in danger from such practices. Besides, when you return to your country quarantine/customs will seize such objects anyway.

·         Papuans and Indonesians alike will always overcharge, their culture revolves around bartering. Reach a price you both agree on, or you and others will definitely be overcharged next time.

·         Never open your wallet in public if you have large amounts of money, when people see that you have plenty, you will be taken advantage of.

·         Don’t expect change from a large note in the marketplace or taking a taxi/motorbike ride. Have correct change ready.

·         Everything revolves around trade. They will most likely not give you anything for free; do not give anything for free. Giving things away for nothing encourages begging. Trade is their way of life.

·         When going on a tour, always check to see what is offered and what you will need. Always be sure to tell guides what you expect, and more importantly if they can offer it.